Not to be Forgotten
- by Laura, April 21, 2008
Recipe 455. Cacciucco I
Or Fish Stew
For 700 grams of fish, finely chop an onion and sauté it with oil, parsley, and two whole cloves of garlic. The moment the onion starts to brown, add 300 grams of chopped fresh tomatoes or tomato paste, and season with salt and pepper. When the tomatoes are cooked, pour in one finger of strong vinegar or two fingers of weak vinegar, diluted in large glass of water. Let boil a few more minutes, then discard the garlic and strain the rest of the ingredients, pressing hard against the mesh. Put the strained sauce back on the fire along with wherever fish you may have on hand, including sole, red mullet, gunard, dogfish, gudgeon, mantis shrimp, and other types of fish in season, leaving the small fish whole and cutting the big ones into large pieces. Taste for seasoning but in any case it is not a bad idea to add a little olive oil, since the amount of soffritto was quite small. When the fish is cooked the cacciucco is usually brought to the table on two separate platters: on one you place the fish strained from the broth and on the other you arrange enough finger-thick slices of bread to soak soup all the broth. The bread slices should be warmed over the fire but not toasted.
--Pellegrino Artusi, Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well, 1891
Don’t think you need much interpretation here, do you? Basically, this is a delicious zuppa di pesce that begins with a sofritto (onion, parsley, and garlic sautéed in oil), plus tomatoes, plus vinegary water. And then you add your fish.
It comes from the era when people didn’t like to have large chunks of garlic and vegetables in their sauce. Hence you’re asked to strain this sauce.Read more »
- by Nancy, April 20, 2008
Laura and I bought some vintage canisters on ebay for me to use as painting and drawing subjects. We thought they would make a great image for Antique Recipe Roadshow. As soon as I got them, I put two of them on my kitchen counter and got out my watercolors. I often paint little watercolors of subjects I’ve never painted before just to get my first quick impression down.Read more »
Antique Recipe Road Show
- by Laura, April 08, 2008
My mother had a terrific recipe for hamantaschen that she made for many years while I was growing up. It was the cookie crust one, not the yeast-dough type. However, she took to experimenting with new recipes she found and ultimately we can’t find our favorite. Do you have one that will remind me of childhood? And while my mother used to fill them with prune or apricot jam, my family loves poppyseed filling. I have a bag of poppyseeds in my freezer waiting for instructions on how to turn them into something luscious.Read more »
A couple of years ago, my family moved to a smaller house on a small plot of land, the events of which are chronicled in my book The Lost Ravioli Recipes of Hoboken. Even if you haven't read the book, you can probably guess why we'd do it. Partly the influence of Italy, where people live in smaller spaces. But surely even more it was that search for that slippery ideal known as simplicity and less stress. Can't say for sure that we've achieved it. That's another post. Or maybe another book.
In the meantime, son number two ran into my office today, the first day of spring, and threw a clump of flowery weeds and its muddy rootball at my feet. He giggled and ran out. It was a seven-year-old's prank, and he was delighted with himself. I picked it up and was taken by the wonderful smell of spring's wet earth and envious of children who get to spend time messing around on the grass.Read more »
- by admin, March 19, 2008
Tijen writes: “I took this photo in August 2006, in a village called Zavotlar, near the Armenian border of Turkey.
“I love watching old women, making bread or doing any work in the kitchen, related to food. We have a lot to learn from them. I especially liked this lady. She was so peaceful, quiet and friendly. It was a wonderful day, spent with three generations of women baking bread and having freshly baked pastries with “kasar peyniri” a cheese made by the same family, along with freshly brewed turkish tea.”
- Tijen Inaltong, Istanbul, Turkey
Not to be Forgotten
- by Laura, December 10, 2007
- Leave a comment
To make paste of quinces
To make paste of quinces: first boil your quinces whole, and when they are soft pare them and cut the quince from the core; then take the finest sugar you can get finely beaten and searced, and put in a little rosewater and boil it together till it be thick; then put in the cut quinces and so boil hem together till it be stiff enough to mould, and when it is cold then roll it and print it. A pound of quinces will take a pound of sugar or near thereabouts.
The English Housewife, 1615
Nancy wanted to paint quinces. Of course she did. Just look at them so beautiful and sexy and weird, cousin of the apple, odd woody fruit, inedible raw, transformed utterly by cooking to become fragrant, rose colored, and sweet.
Quince is hardly used anymore in the U.S., but we think it is primo territory for “not to be forgotten.” I hope more farmers will grow them and bring them back.Read more »
Foodies of the world love to gripe about the horrors of globalization and modern technology: nectarines from Chile, corn syrup, plastic packaging. Yes, I agree. But globalization has also brought some benefits, including a lot of international knowledge and a passion for preservation. It's made people rally around old recipes and food history. The Internet seems to be one of our best tools.
Let me give you one example: Years ago, I received an email from a woman named Marialuisa Schenone--same last name as mine--from Genoa, Italy, home to my dad's grandparents.She'd stumbled across my web site and decided to write me.
"I know where your family comes from," wrote Marialuisa. "They come from the village Lumarzo where all persons are Schenone."Read more »
- by Nancy, November 11, 2007
- Leave a comment
To Draw a Quince…
...first I sketched a lot of them quickly in watercolor from above, just to get the feel of their shape.Read more »