Masher
- by Nancy, February 21, 2010
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Yesterday on one of my favorite blogs Ciao Chow Linda I read of her trip to Italy and a wonderful dish she ate with Jerusalem artichokes in it. These are small tubers that are actually not related to the big, fat green artichokes we see in supermarkets everywhere. I was lucky enough to taste Jerusalem artichokes when I was a pastry chef. The chefs I worked for loved them. They really are delicious and worth seeking out.
Linda mentioned in her story that she was curious where to get them in New Jersey and
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that piqued my curiosity, so I went spelunking on the internet as I usually do when on the hunt for a certain food or its uses. I found them easily at Whole Foods, so maybe you can too.
I also found to my delight that our gardening zone in the Northeast supports the plants which gardeners report are easy to grow and have enormous yields. I have a teeny garden in my back yard, and Laura has one in her front yard, as some of our readers know from her previous posts. I’m looking forward to ordering some plants here when they ship this spring.
Incidentally the name Jerusalem artichokes may have nothing to do with the city of Jerusalem and more to do with the corruption of the word “girasole” which means “turning to the sun” in Italian. Apparently the small tubers, part of the Sunflower family of plants are also called sunchokes or sun roots in some cultures and have a history reaching back to the sixteenth or seventeenth century, possibly having been cultivated first by Native Americans.
If you’re lucky enough to find them near you, here’s a simple recipe.
see also: Tomatoes at my Front Door
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Not to be Forgotten
- by Nancy, February 20, 2010
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From The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Real Mother Goose
Illustrated by Blanche Fisher Wright, 2004
I am intrigued by Hot Cross Buns. They look delicious. I cannot find a good recipe, however, for making them from scratch. Apparently, few people make them. A lot of childhood memories of them involve cardboard boxes from bakeries or supermarkets. I have a feeling, though, with my baker’s intuition, that the homemade kind would be worth the effort.
Granted I don’t participate in Good Friday traditions, and I only tasted the commercial version once, finding them
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pleasant but lacking in depth. They still exert some inexplicable pull on me as an avid bread baker with a penchant for all things fresh from the oven, yeasty, risen, and flavored with spice. A plump raisin is a draw too, as most versions seem to have them. I am also curious how a recipe rich with milk and butter, even in the older recipes I’ve seen, becomes something associated with Lent.
I do have childhood memories of Easter, since my Jewish mother had an inexplicable fondness for the holiday. It was her guilty pleasure as a member of a synagogue and mother of two boys about to become bar mitzvah celebrants to give us Easter baskets that she snuck into our rooms while we slept the night before the holiday. We four kids left carrots and milk out for the (Yiddishe) Easter bunny.
So, coming from the ilk of baker who is likely to make a chocolate croissant from scratch, I am searching for a fabulous Hot Cross Bun recipe. I will be testing them in the weeks to come and posting the results here in future Not To Be Forgotten Posts.
Can you help find the best Hot Cross Buns recipe with a link, a family recipe or a cookbook recommendation? If so, use the comments link under the title of this post, above, or email me at nancy@nancygailring.com. In the meantime, check back soon when Laura will pick up this thread to post a history of Hot Cross Buns.
see also: How To Make Chocolate Croissants Without Taking An Entire Day
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Masher
- by Laura, February 18, 2010
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“Should I have bought the more expensive brand?” I asked the repair man.
It was the seventh visit in four months.
“Nah,” he replied. “They’re all the same. I fix them all; they all break. Everything is made of junk. That’s why we’re in the trouble we’re in.”
Thank you. I agree. But what about my dishwasher?
I bought a Whirlpool last spring, and it breaks all the time. Since October, I have been washing dishes by hand, most of the time. The machine is still under warranty, so rather than replace it, Whirlpool spends twice as much sending in repair men to fix it. Constantly. And each time, it breaks again. Then we wait again another month for a part to come in.
The machine is clearly a lemon and will never work.
Note: this post is about the second part of our subtitle at Jellypress: “modern life.” My modern life as a freelance writer and mom means I work more hours than I care to admit in a day. Dishes are adding more. Plus a dishrack always on the counter taking space. Plus a never-ending stack to be washed and another to put away. I see my son head to the fridge. “Do you really want that orange juice?” I know it’s another glass in the sink. Frankly, I am starting to wonder if the Slow Food movement would ever have been born if there weren’t dishwashers.
So, while I’ve got my hands in the water, I have flashbacks to the the 1970s. I can see the moment the first dishwasher arrived in our house. It was a huge deal. And I fully understood because I’d been my mother’s dishwashing helper.
“It’s washing the dishes for us!” I declared like it was a miracle.
“And not only that, I’m sitting here having a cup of coffee,” my mom said, pointing to her cup
Boy that would be nice, wouldn’t it? Well, of course that’s not what she did with her extra hour each day.
Shortly after that dishwasher came, my mom got a job in town. That job led to another where she worked her way up from a secretary to a high-level manager, and got her bachelor’s degree on the side. Then she became a vice president, and then consultant. Screw the cup of coffee. While the dishwasher hummed, mom was earning money and education.
One of the reasons why I write about old recipes is that there are good things in the past that should be remembered, used, celebrated. But washing dishes definitely isn’t one of them. Hooray for technology.
Excuse me now, as I’ve got to go call Whirlpool again.
Masher
- by Nancy, February 17, 2010
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One summer when I was a mere youth of 29, I had the good fortune to live in Spain for a month, on the island of Formentera. Goats in the streets. The buzz of motor scooters rounding the dirt roads. No Starbucks. No Banana Republic. Just a big hot sun that set at ten at night, inky espresso and freshly baked fig cakes. It was there that I learned the very healthful European habit of
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eating the biggest meal of the day at lunch and having something light for dinner. Ever since, I often eat cereal at night. It’s light. It’s crunchy. It’s got the icy-cold thirst-quenching splashy slurp of milk. And best of all, it’s fast and makes practically no mess. My son loves it too sometimes. Two bowls. Two spoons. One night off from shopping, shlepping, cooking and cleaning up for Mom. Good for body and soul. Cereal for dinner. I love it.
see also: Why I Love Olives and Oranges
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Masher
- by Nancy, February 13, 2010
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What we are adding to our chocolate croissant recipe today:
1 egg whisked with 1 teaspoon of water, for egg wash (you can substitute water or milk.)
Our recipe for chocolate croissant appears in full at the end of this post, with a variation for plain, crescent-shaped croissant.

Today’s the day we bake the chocolate croissant. What’s this about? Click here.
If you’d like to join us, begin with Day 1, then Day 2, and Day 3. Today, Valentine’s Day, Day 4, we are going to finish our recipe.
First, preheat your oven to 375 degrees F. Position a rack in the center of the oven.
Take the croissants out of the refrigerator where they have been having their last rise before baking. Let them sit out, covered loosely with plastic wrap, for about 45 minutes to one hour, depending on the temperature in your kitchen, until they warm a bit and rise a little more, as pictured above.
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Take off the plastic wrap and brush on the egg wash. I like to double my sheetpans so that the bottoms of the pastries are sure not to burn. Be sure that the croissants are about 2 inches apart.
Bake them until they are golden, 15 minutes. Transfer them to a serving platter with a metal spatula.

You did it!

So what did my son say about his Valentine’s gift of croissant? “Mom these are the most incredible things I’ve ever tasted.” How’s that for kudos?

I hope you had as much fun baking with me as I did posting these day-by-day lessons for you. Please comment using the link above under the title of this post to give me your feedback. What else would you like to learn to make? Think about it while you enjoy your homemade Petit Pains Au Chocolat. Happy Valentine’s Day.
Note: This copyrighted recipe must be printed as it appears. For my tips and detailed instructions, refer back to my three previous posts, links above, and today, Day 4.
Chocolate Croissant
copyright Nick Malgieri, 1985, All Rights Reserved, Revised 3/89, as it appears in my binder from the former Peter Kump’s New York Cooking School (now I.C.E.)
3 cups flour
1 1/2 teaspoons of salt
4 tablespoons sugar
1 1/2 cups milk
1 ounce yeast or 1 1/2 envelopes dry yeast
3 sticks of butter
3 tablespoons of flour
1. Sift dry ingredients together in a mixing bowl.
2. Heat milk until just warm and beat the crumbled yeast to dissolve yeast completely.
3. Add milk-yeast to flour mixture and mix with wooden spoon until just blended. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
4. Knead butter until soft, not oily. Knead in flour and set aside.
5. Roll dough into a rectangle about 1/4-inch thick. Spread butter on bottom 2/3 of dough. Fold top (unbuttered) portion of dough down, and bottom (buttered) portion of dough up. Turn dough until bottom is at right side.
6. Roll dough into a rectangle and fold both ends in toward center. Fold again at center to make 4 layers. Turn dough 90 degrees so the fold is at left and roll again. Fold both ends in toward center and fold again at center. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate at least 4 hours.
Petit Pains au Chocolat
1. Cut rolled croissant dough into rectangles of approximately 4 x 5”.
2. Brush with egg wash and place a few slivers of semisweet chocolate down the center of each rectangle. Fold dough to cover chocolate and seal seam.
3. Invert les petits pains on an ungreased baking sheet to rise until double.
4. Brush with egg wash and bake at 375 - 400 degrees for about 15 minutes.
For Plain Croissant
1. Roll dough 1/8-inch thick and cut into triangular shapes. Roll up beginning at base of triangle shapes and place on ungreased baking sheet to rise until double in bulk: 1 - 4 hours depending on temperature.
2. Brush with egg wash and bake at 375 - 400 degrees for about 15 minutes.
see also: How To Make Chocolate Croissants Without Taking An Entire Day - Day 3
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Masher
- by Nancy, February 12, 2010
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Today we will add the following ingredients to our chocolate croissant.
8 - 12 ounces semi-sweet chocolate
1 egg, for brushing dough
enough flour for rolling out dough
For a complete list of ingredients, click here.

Welcome to day three of “How to Make Chocolate Croissant Without Taking An Entire Day.” Wondering what this is all about? Click the link in the box above this post, then click on Day 1 and Day 2 to get up to speed and join us if you like.
Take the croissant dough you refrigerated yesterday out of the fridge. It should look like the picture above, puffed up from its overnight rise. Unwrap it.
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Place it on a floured surface and sprinkle a little flour onto it so it does not stick while rolling.

Roll it into a rectangle 15” x 20”. Use a ruler if you have one. You want to be able to cut out the croissant easily and evenly. Check to be sure as you roll that the dough is not sticking to the surface by lifting the edges and adding a little flour underneath it if needed.
The dough may resist rolling or spring back smaller as you roll since it is now risen from the yeast and quite elastic. Just gently roll it out again and again until it stretches to the desired size.

Cut five four-inch wide strips across the length of the dough that measures 20”.

Cut three five-inch wide strips across the width of the dough measuring 15”. You should have 15 rectangles.

Mix the egg with 1 teaspoon of water to make an egg wash. Brush the rectangles all over.

Cut up your semi-sweet chocolate into long flat bars. If you have thick chocolate, chop it into smaller pieces to add to the croissant. You can use chips too if you have them.

Place the desired amount of chocolate in the center of each rectangle. Here you see about 10 ounces of chocolate all together divided among the croissant.

Fold the top of the rectangle down about 2/3 of its length, as pictured.

Fold the bottom of the rectangle up to form the croissant. Pinch all edges to seal the dough, using more egg wash for a good seal as needed. Do this well; you do not want your croissant to leak while baking.

Place the croissant on a parchment-paper covered, greased, or nonstick pad-covered sheetpan, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate it again.
Now here’s the exception: If you have time to bake your croissant today, at this point in the recipe you can. Simply leave the croissant out of the fridge on sheetpans with about 2 inches space between them and let them rise until double in size, approximately 45 minutes to 1 1/2 hours depending on the temperature of your kitchen. Then you can egg wash them again before putting them in the oven and bake them at 375 degrees F. for 15 minutes until golden. Cool them on a rack and serve warm.
Note: Croissant are best eaten the same day, but you can store them in an airtight container. Day-old, they will not have the same texture.
You can also freeze some of the croissant to bake off whenever you wish by placing them, unbaked, on a pan in a single layer in the freezer. When they are frozen through, wrap them in aluminum foil and place them in zip-loc bags. Take them out about an hour or two before you want to bake them off to let them thaw and puff a bit. Then bake as directed above.
I have a small family, so I froze half a dozen of my fifteen, baked off two immediately (my son couldn’t wait!) and refrigerated the other seven. You can divide your unbaked croissant this way too if it suits your lifestyle to do so.
If you are going to wait to bake all your croissant on Valentine’s morning with me, however, then refrigerate them as directed above to let them have their last rise in the refrigerator overnight. See you tomorrow!
see also: How To Make Chocolate Croissants Without Taking An Entire Day - Day 2
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Masher
- by Nancy, February 11, 2010
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What we are adding to our recipe today:
3 sticks sweet unsalted butter, softened at room temperature to pliable consistency but still cool, not greasy (about 1/2 - 1 hour sitting out of refrigerator.)
3 T. all-purpose unbleached flour
more flour as needed for rolling dough
For a complete list of ingredients, click here.
Another reminder: For tomorrow, Saturday, February 13th, please also have one egg available for egg wash to seal the croissant. Alternatively, you can use water or milk.

If you are just coming upon this post and want to join in making chocolate croissant with Nancy for Valentines Day, click here and then here to get up to speed, then return to follow today’s directions.
For the rest of you who have already been following these posts, welcome to day 2.
Above you see the three sticks of sweet unsalted butter that we are going to add to our recipe. I hope you remembered
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to take your butter out about a half hour to an hour ago so that it is still cold but pliable, and not oily or greasy. It is very important that the butter still be cool to the touch, otherwise this next part of the recipe will be extremely difficult and present problems. The butter should be the consistency of cool clay or play-dough - able to be handled but not squishy or warm at all.
When it’s the right temperature, knead it or mix it with a dough hook or paddle attachment on low speed in the bowl of an electric mixer, or by hand with a wooden spoon, until it is still cool and soft but free of lumps.
Now take 3 T. flour and spread it on a wooden pastry board or the surface where you like to roll dough.

Transfer the lump-free, smooth, cool butter from the bowl to the floured surface. Coat the butter with the flour and gently knead it in. If at any point the butter becomes too soft to handle, refrigerate it and come back to work again. If you work quickly however, and your butter was not too warm to begin with, you should not have a problem. Set the butter aside, in the fridge if you think it might start getting too soft during the next step.

Now spread more flour on your work surface if needed. Remove the dough we made yesterday from the refrigerator, unwrap it and place it on the floured surface. Roll it into a rectangle 1/4 inch thick. It’s not so important what the dimensions of your rectangle are; it’s more important that it be rectangle shaped and 1/4 inch thick. Try to make it look somewhat like mine, above. Let the dough sit while you do the next step.

Place the lump-free, cool butter you prepared between two sheets of plastic wrap and roll it to approximately the size of 2/3 of your dough rectangle.

Take off the top sheet of plastic from the butter and flip the butter onto the dough so that it covers the bottom 2/3 of the dough. Then remove the other sheet of plastic wrap.

It should look like this now.

Fold the top of the dough down, as shown above, so that it comes to the center of the dough.

Fold the bottom of the dough up to meet the top, like this.

Now fold the dough again at center to make four layers. If at any point the dough gets too hot or soft to work with properly, refrigerate it until it is cooler.

Turn the dough so that the fold is at the left, like a book with the binding on the left.
Now repeat, rolling out this folded dough into a rectangle 1/4 inch thick, then folding the top down to the center, the bottom up to the center, and then folding in the center to make the four layers. Turn the dough once more so that the fold is on the left.
Repeat all the steps a third time, from rolling out 1/4 inch thick to turning the dough so that the fold is on the left. These are called, for obvious reasons, “turns” in pastry lingo, and it is these turns that make the yummy buttery layers in croissant dough.

When you have made all three turns of the dough, wrap it in plastic and refrigerate it again overnight. Have questions or problems? Use the comments link under the title of this article to write to me.
See you tomorrow!
see also: How To Make Chocolate Croissants Without Taking An Entire Day - Day 1
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Masher
- by Nancy, February 10, 2010
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The part of the recipe for chocolate croissant we’re using today:
3 cups flour
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
4 T. sugar
1 1/2 one-quarter-ounce-packages dry yeast (or 3 teaspoons plus f1/4 teaspoon, plus 1/8 teaspoon yeast
1 1/2 cups whole milk
For a complete list of ingredients, click here.
One correction: For the third day of baking, Saturday, February 13th, please also have one egg available for egg wash to seal the croissant. Alternatively, you can substitute water or milk.

We are ready to make chocolate croissant! What’s this about? Click here.
My sister, who is baking with us today, told me that she saw the film “It’s Complicated,” and that Meryl Streep makes chocolate croissant for Steve Martin in the movie. Her comment? “Yum!”
So let’s do it. If you really want to streamline this because you’re super-short on time, you can measure out your ingredients early in the morning (like before you go to work if you have a job) and then throw the dough together when you come home in the evening. Otherwise you can do both at the same time.
Put three cups of flour in a large mixing bowl, as pictured above. Here’s a tip
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on measuring flour: lift the flour with your free hand into the cup gently rather than scoop it. Do not shake the cup or you will fill it with too much flour. Level it off with a knife. Try it! You’ll see that you’ll have lighter baked goods if you’ve been a “measuring cup shaker” in the past.
Add 1 1/2 teaspoons of salt and 4 T. of sugar. Whisk it in the same bowl or sift it into another bowl. We pastry chefs are fond of whisking our dry ingredients rather than sifting. Call us creative sifters. Anyway, let’s proceed.

In a separate little cup or bowl, place 1 1/2 one-quarter-ounce-packages dry yeast, (or 3 teaspoons plus 1/4 teaspoon plus 1/8 teaspoon yeast.)

In a liquid measuring cup like this one, pour 1 1/2 cups whole milk.

Pour the milk into a small soup pot and heat over medium-low heat until it is 105 degrees F, or about the temperature of milk for a baby’s bottle if you don’t have a thermometer.

Sprinkle the yeast evenly over the warm milk, off the heat. Let it sit about five minutes, and whisk gently until the yeast is completely dissolved.

Pour the yeast/milk mixture into the flour all at once and stir with a wooden spoon until you have a ragged looking dough. Mix until just incorporated; do not overmix.

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate it overnight. Have questions or problems? Write to me using the comments link under the title of this post, above.
One last thing: Tomorrow you will need the next ingredient, three sticks of unsalted sweet butter, to be softened at room temperature until it’s pliable and still cool but not oily or greasy for the next part of the recipe. Make sure to take it out of the refrigerator about 1/2 hour to 1 hour before you want to start the next post. See you tomorrow!!
see also: How To Make Chocolate Croissants Without Taking An Entire Day
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Masher
- by Nancy, February 10, 2010
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I am about to bake chocolate croissant with you here on Jellypress. (What’s this about? Click here.)
My recipe for chocolate croissant comes from my Peter Kump’s New York Cooking School binder. The school, founded in 1975 by Peter Kump, has a new name now, I.C.E. and a new space in Manhattan. All the recipes in my original binder are pastry chef Nick Malgieri’s, the former director of Kump’s, and all are fail-proof and delicious. I still treasure this binder and use it constantly, and I love Nick’s books. Above is a picture of his new Modern Baker. His Perfect Pastry is one of my bibles. If you’d like more information on Nick Malgieri and his great books, check out his website.
I met Nick when I was a lowly, lowly pastry acolyte at Kump’s and he was the director, then on the Upper East Side of Manhattan.
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Nick was generous with his recipes and his support of us students, which continued after we were done with classes. He was always there to write a note of recommendation if needed, provide advice, and offer us employment if he could teaching classes at Kump’s. I taught several classes at the school. I think I learned as much as the students did.
I ultimately left professional baking to pursue my art career first and foremost, but I wouldn’t trade that experience for anything.
See you tomorrow for baking chocolate croissant, with a nod to Nick for his incredible recipe and inspiration.
see also: How To Make Chocolate Croissants Without Taking An Entire Day
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Masher
- by Nancy, February 10, 2010
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What’s this about? Click here.
I hope you have your ingredients by now, but if you don’t and want to join me to learn to bake chocolate croissant for Valentines Day, click the link above and get ready for tomorrow.
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One correction: Please have one egg available as well as the ingredients I listed for our recipe. You will not need the egg until the third day, Saturday so you have time to get it. It’s for egg wash to seal the croissant before baking. If you do not have an egg and can’t get one before Saturday, no worries. You can use milk or even water instead, just something to moisten the dough so it sticks together. Bakers like the richness and sticking power of egg but any liquid will do.
See you tomorrow!
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Masher
- by Laura, February 08, 2010
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A few weeks ago, my friend a Lou told me to come over to his house with a bowl. I showed up with the bowl and my nine-year-old son. He said to my son, “Can you say your name?” And of course Simon said yes. “Then you can bake this bread,” Lou said. He’d been trying to get me to bake bread for years, and I just never got to it. “Laura, listen to me. This is nothing. Soon the bakeries are gonna go out of business.”
Of course I’d heard of the “no knead bread phenomenon,” and the article in the New York Times that spawned endless email.

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He hardly needs any more publicity from me. I’m only jumping on the bandwagon here out of my own sheer exuberance for this recipe. It is a thrilling discovery. Here’s how it works:
You simply mix flour, yeast, salt, and water in an ordinary bowl, and cover it with plastic. 12 to 18 hours later you take it out and shape it. Then two hours later you bake it in a heavy duty crock with a lid, which captures steam and emulates a brick oven. Using this method, you can make bread every single day with little effort or cost. Try it. You’ll love it.
Here’s the link to the original New York Times article.
And here’s a link to a website that interprets the recipe step by step with photos and some helpful pointers (try to ignore the hideous ads about losing belly fat).
Here’s a link to Lahey’s book.
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Masher
- by Nancy, February 07, 2010
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I am a former pastry chef. So I love to make these beautiful homemade sweets. But I feel compelled to write this post because I also keep my body healthful and thin (emphasis on the word healthful as I am sensitive to the unhealthful obsession that most women have to be slender.)
People always say to me “How can you be such an avid baker and not be fat?” It’s no mystery: because
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I exercise daily and don’t eat heavy sweets daily. I do eat my share of dark chocolate daily, but only a small amount and with the awareness that some dark chocolate is believed to be good for you (a development that when it was announced marked one of the happiest days of my life.)
I am also aware that Americans are generally overweight now and have many health problems from over-eating and from sweets in particular. So I would feel uncomfortable with having them too often since I really advocate them on special occasions, or as Michael Pollen, author of, Food Rules: An Eater’s Manual says, “No snacks, no seconds, no sweets, except on days that begin with the letter S.”
Pollen is quoted in a very informative article about these issues by Jane Brody for the New York Times. Read the full text here.
Do I indulge when I’m not supposed to, when I have a bad day, when I’m just in the mood for something over-the-top and it’s not the weekend? Yes, I do. Maybe you do too. Nobody’s a saint. Besides, being rigid is boring. But the goal is moderation. So all that said, I hope you do join me in making chocolate croissant for Sunday, Valentine’s Day. I plan on eating a whole one myself.
see also: Thing of the Day - Last Dance with HoneyBell (Oranges, that is)
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- by Nancy, February 06, 2010
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The Perfect Table Setting, Luc Tuymans, 2005
Luc Tuymans is from Belgium, now an Antwerp-based painter who is considered one of the most important of his generation (See the current issue of Art in America for an interview confirming this by Steel Stillman, so fresh from the press that it’s not online yet. I’ll provide a link when and if I can.) I feel compelled to share his painting, The Perfect Table Setting, above, as it slowly reveals,
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with repeated observation and contemplation, much about the artist’s intentions, much about contemporary representational painting, and for jellypress readers, much about how domestic imagery such as a table setting is more than meets the eye.
Looking for images on the Web from the era of WWII and the Depression and the period following it for a new series of paintings in the early part of this decade, Tuymans’ came across a book for housewives from 1954 where he found a photograph supposedly illustrating the perfect table setting. For Tuymans, the image was linked to political, cultural and social issues at the time of being proper, and it echoed other proper forms of the past like ballroom dancing, another image in the series.
The table setting, composed and determined in the face of the darker side of life and in particular, the atrocities of war, is painted in muted tones and loose washes, suggesting with its departure from photographic realism, a more poetic and ambiguous reading than the photographic image would allow. Tuymans’ detractors think his use of hot-button current events is opportunistic. Steel asserts that Tuymans work “seduces visually as it intrigues intellectually” (page 76.) What do you think?
Other artists, such as Hanna von Goeler, have used the perfect table setting as imagery, in von Goeler’s case to contrast with the excesses of the OSS during wartime which she did in an installation of fine crystal and china interspersed with toy trains, photographs and other mementos lit to cast eerie shadows on the walls at Sloan Fine Art in January, 2009.
We’ve all stood over a table and tried to make it perfect at one time or another, yes? What were we hoping to communicate? A sense of calm in the midst of an imperfect world? An oasis of beauty to separate and elevate a special event from the humdrum of ordinary life?
Next time you’re laying out the good china, think about it.
see also: Thing of the Day - Cezanne
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- by Laura, February 05, 2010
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Should restaurant reviews be fluff pieces or food porn?
Should they read like interesting adventure stories with sensual descriptions?
Should they be a factual service to the ordinary consumer?
Should you take their word for it on Chowhound, or is the job best left to elite professionals?
Here is a wonderful article that addresses all this and more, including a terrific history of the restaurant review genre at The New York Times, from Craig Claiborne to Gail Greene, Ruth Reichl and the unanonymous Sam Sifton of present. Loved this piece in the Columbia Journalism Review.
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- by Nancy, February 04, 2010
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I’ll say it like it is — so crappy — that’s what I think of my 12-year old son’s favorite chain grocery chocolate croissants, pictured above. Really look at them. Knowing that I am a former pastry chef, can you feel my pain? This for a child who dreams of visiting Paris one day, and for me, who opens the little box holding the engagement ring I stashed there since my divorce and thinks of hocking it for the trip . . . then puts it back thinking of more practical things like saving for college.
People are surprised when they ask what my favorite pastries are and I answer with ubiquitous things like croissant or eclairs. They don’t know how extraordinary these things are fresh and homemade. If they did, they would agree. So I am going to make chocolate croissants for my son for Valentines Day, and I’m going to show you how too.
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Bakers and cooks are always telling people, “Oh, you can do this recipe ahead, or in small steps over the course of a few days,” but they never really explain this. Few people know what this means. It’s overwhelming. So this is a bake-with-me post. It’s no mystery and it’s not that hard. All you need is a guide and a little gumption.
Here’s the plan:
Get your ingredients before next Wednesday, February 10th.
We’ll make the dough next Thursday, February 11th and refrigerate it.
We’ll add the butter and learn to fold it in on Friday, February 12th.
Then Saturday, February 13th, we’ll roll out and shape the croissant.
If all goes well, we have them for brunch on Sunday morning, February 14th, Valentine’s Day.
I’m giving you this heads-up to get your ingredients.
Are you game? Good. Here’s your ingredient list:
2 cups flour
4 T. sugar
1 1/2 cups whole milk
1 1/2 envelopes of dry yeast
3 sticks sweet unsalted butter
extra flour for rolling
1 egg, for egg wash
your favorite semi-sweet chocolate - the amount depends on how stuffed with chocolate you like your croissant. For me, I buy at least 8 - 12 ounces.
You also may want to have a quick-read thermometer handy unless you are good at guessing the temperature of warm milk by description (in this case it will need to be warm like a baby’s bottle - 105 degrees F.)
See you next week!
To access all four posts showing How To Make Chocolate Croissant Without Taking An Entire Day, click the links here: Day 1, Day 2, Day 3, Day 4
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