Antique Recipe Road Show

Easter Pie or Pizza Rustica

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Question:

My sister and I have been searching for a recipe for Easter Pie that my grandmother used to make at Easter time. The versions that we have found are not the same like she made. Her Easter Pie was made with ham, hard boiled eggs, chunks of cheese and pasta. We have used other recipes and included the food items she used but there is something missing and we just can’t seem to replicate her recipe. I wish I had written it down like so many other of her recipes that I watched her make as a young girl.  My grandmother told me her parents were gypsies who lived in the hills above Salerno and tended goats.


--Sara

Sara.  Wow about the gypsies. 

My Ligurian ancestors made “Torta Pasqualina,” which translates literally as “Easter Pie.” But this not the answer you’re looking for because your family comes from Salerno, which is in the Campania region to the south.  I am certain you are referring to a very different dish that goes by many similar names such as pizza rustica or pizza chiena.  Chiena means “filled” in dialect.  So it is a stuffed pizza.  Italian Americans changed the word from chiena to gain.  So it is often be called pizza gain. Whatever the name, I think this is more or less the same as your Easter pie--an incredibly decadent thing, filled with cheeses and meat and eggs.  It ends the fasting of lent with joy and celebration of Easter. 

In searching for this recipe for you, I found an interesting little book online called ”> The story of a year, many years ago. It appears to be a very personal account of life in Salerno int he 60s or 70s, and includes recipes.  I emailed the author, Marco Ferraiolo, and asked about your Easter Pie.  He graciously wrote as follows (my rough translation):

“I believe the pie you’re looking for from the hills around Salerno is a “Tortano,” which is a pie/brioche traditional to the Campania region, prepared for Easter, and made with a bread dough, kneaded with lard, pork cracklings, pepper, pecorino cheese, salame, eggs.” He describes a method of making it with many layers of pastry surrounding the filling.

In various incarnations, vegetable pies, or torte, exist all over Italy, and it will be difficult to find your exact recipe.  There is no one recipe.  They vary from region to village, to family.

That said, in Arthur Schwartz’s wonderful Naples at Table:  Cooking in Campania, he gives a terrific recipe for “savory Easter ricotta pie,” of which he writes:  Pizza Rustica, an open, lattice-topped or fully enclosed pastry filled with ricotta, diced cheeses, and various preserved pork products, is also called pizza ripiena (stuffed pie) or in dialect, pizza chiena--from which comes the frequently used Italian American name pizza gain. Follow the jump to the end of this story for his recipe. 

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